Thanks for the welcome
Yes, not quite Gen3 - actually Gen1, but performance is comparable to Gen3 or High-end gen2. The reason these tubes amplify so much is because they are actually 3x Gen1 tubes in cascade. The big difference between Gen2/3 and Gen1 is the amplification.
Gen1 amplifies a couple of hundred times while Gen2/3 amplify about 20,000 to 50,000 times, which is why cheaper Gen1 and Gen1+ aren't any use without IR ( called active Night Vision )
However, a Cascade is a military scope that used three Gen1 tubes tied together with fiber-optic bundles. Each has only about 60x gain, but 60 x 60 x 60 is a LOT of gain - more than 100,000 x.
The tubes available are old and used up, but still typically have gain levels around 50,000x - roughly the equivalent of Gen2/3... They are also the last of the technology from that era, so have pretty sensitive S25 photocathodes, which perform well in starlight alone.
You can also use them in active mode, in which they have a range of several hundred meters.
You can attach them to a (D)SLR camera... It would mean making up a lens adapter and a relay lens... Not too difficult ( I can tell you how to make those as well ) but generally it's easier to use a smaller eyepiece and stick a cheap automatic camera in behind it... Or a movie camera or whatever you have laying around really. If you're shooting for quality, then you probably want to go manual focus either way so a DSLR isn't a bad idea. Though the bayonet fitting will be a little harder to install.
Though I've used SLR front-lenses for objective lenses. The only rule is "As fast as possible" so typically you want a lens around 50 to 100mm and with a F-number under 2.0 - And you can also use telescopes as lenses too if you really want a lot of light I suppose.
Ideally, you would probably make one, learn from it, use it as a spotting scope and make another for the camera, based on what you learned the first time around. They will run all night on a single set of batteries ( actually, they will run many nights in a row on a single set of batteries )
I personally just hold a camera up to my eyepiece and take a photo that way. You can get a digital camera adapter from Yukon dealers from around $50 and just duct-tape it to a scope or you can just make one up out of bits of left-over parts.
The good thing about cheap digital cameras. They are VERY high resolution ( These tubes have resolution capabilities over 2000 pixels ) and you can also record at 25/30 frames at 640x480... Or you can set up a video camera to do the same, same principle.
It is possible to make small camera adapters as well. You just wait until a suitable smaller tube comes up on Ebay and put it together the same way.
Though in truth, you'll spend over $3000 on a tube before you find one that performs as well as a cascade tube, especially in Australia.
Keep in mind too that despite the high gain, remote areas of Australia are much darker than similar areas in the US/Europe/Asia... It's very dark here out in the outback. You will eventually find conditions under which your range is reduced. Photography is also challenging. To get the best results, you may find that you want to identify your target passive then switch on some IR lights around 850nm. Or just watch continuously. There is still debate over whether animals notice the red from the IR source when looking at it directly.
David.